Caring for your Tree Rose is very similar to bush roses

Challenges:

• May require more water than bush roses
• Must be staked
• The standard, or trunk, is susceptible to sunscald
• The canes, being elevated, are more exposed to winds and susceptible to dessication
• Requires rather elaborate winter protection methods in zones 4 and 5

When shopping for your tree rose, remember that the trunk is not only very exposed to sun and wind, but it needs to support the full weight of the rose and be strong enough not to snap in the wind. You will need to stake your standard to prevent breaking, but do try to select a sturdy trunk to start with. Here in the South, we must not only concern ourselves with the normal pests and diseases found among roses, we must also worry about strong sun and strong, desiccating winds. With standards, "sun scald" on canes is a very serious problem. (We typically tie the support stake on the south side of the cane to help shade it from our summer sun.)

Spread a thick layer of mulch around the tree rose to prevent splashing water.  Water deeply every 4 or 5 days. You do not need to fertilize yet, the organic amendments you mixed into the soil will feed your rose slowly as it becomes established. 

Follow the care instructions for the variety that is grafted to your standard. Once your tree rose is established, the only difference is care is to remember that your tree rose may feed a bit more heavily that a shrub rose. Most gardeners feel that extra water and fertilizer are used simply because it has further to travel to get to the roses bush. But obviously, the trunk itself is feeding too.

The tree can be made round by directional pruning techniques.

Unlike most rosarians, I continue to feed and water my roses right up until September although the recommended procedure says to stop feeding your roses approximately six weeks before the first frost in an attempt to properly harden off the canes and stop any new shoots that will fall victim to a deep frost. I believe it is more important to have a strong and healthy rose, particularly the root system, to ensure the rose’s survival through the winter. I also believe that as long as the soil temperature remains above fifty-degrees the rose’s root system will continue to feed and grow and become stronger to withstand the winter elements. In a mild winter they will continue to feed, sometimes into early December. The only thing that I do to help harden off the canes and concentrate on the root system is to remove the leaves in November.

Special needs of tree rose: Tree roses are very tender and require careful winter protection in all but the warmest climates. Those grown in containers can be brought indoors when dormant and kept barely watered in a cool space until spring.

•  There are limited types of roses suited for container adaptability.
• Containers require more frequent feeding and watering.
• Plants in containers are more susceptible to overheating and freezing.
• Container plants require re-potting as they grow.
• They must be moved indoors or winterized.
• Containers may experience soil compaction.
• Hanging baskets can accommodate smaller roses.

Once all the soil and/or insulation has been removed, prune your roses to remove any dead canes, to open up the center of the plants and evenly shape, and to encourage new, vigorous growth.

The central cane of rose trees must be staked to support the weight of the grafted rose on top. This is especially important in windy areas. Tree roses are especially susceptible to sun scald on the central cane and you can protect them from this by keeping the central cane shaded. Otherwise, tree roses must be cared for as you would care for your shrub roses.